Below are (some of) the layers of time that went into creating the Moth Series scarves. Now available in the SHOP. Enjoy.
Normally, when I eco-bundle, I douse the fabric in vinegar, throw in some flora, roll, secure, steam, and wait. I've gotten some pretty beautiful results in my haphazard way of doing things, but these days I'm becoming more curious about the chemistry and reason behind it all. I've known about pH modifiers since the beginning, but never paid to much attention to it, until recently when I started an indigo vat... results from that later...
Because I had 10 yards of silk to dye for new scarves, I decided to do an experiment with how varying the pH in the bundle might affect the color extracted from the plant materials.
I used 8mm silk habotai: scoured and mordanted with alum + cream of tartar.
On the Left side of every image you will see results from a pH of around 4 to 5. To get this I diluted white vinegar in tap water. On the Right side of every image you will see results from a pH of around 9 or 10. To get this I diluted soda ash in tap water. Each bundle sat over night and were steamed for about an hour the next day, then left to sit (wrapped in plastic to retain moisture) for six days. Each piece of fabric was unbundled and left to dry on the line, then steam ironed. I have NOT washed any of the fabric yet, as I want to let them cure for a few days.
What I have noticed is that a lower pH achieves a much more crisp and defined print from each plant, EXCEPT from the carrot tops. And all of the colors are a bit warmer when compared to the colors achieved from the higher pH bundles. The higher pH bundles gave greener shades and seemed to allow the color to disperse a bit more into the fabric.
Here are the results:
If anything changes after the fabric is washed, I will post an update. I am very eager to have a dialogue about these results, so please comment below if you have any information as to WHY these results have happened and if you have any questions.
There was only one major change that happened after the wash. The hibiscus fabric changed from vibrant magenta to a dusty purple.
These pieces of silk still have to be printed on, batiked, and re-dyed as they turn into scarves, so stay tuned! ( and follow me on instagram : jamiebourgeois )
Work In Progress
screen printing with natural dyes + eco bundling + batik + indigo = there's still more work to be done, but what I have here is oh, so satisfying.
I planted a dye garden this year, and it is the most glorious thing.
Stay tuned for results!
I went on a harvesting walk through the city of Savannah to find plant material to dye my silk material. Luckily it was right after the Holidays and people were throwing out old bouquets and center pieces. To say the least, I found gold mines. Here's some of the process.
After they steamed I boiled some of the bundles in a bath of red wine, yellow onion skins, and black tea.
And then I wrapped some of them around a rusty iron spike.
A stencil idea.
A test and a fail...
A reinterpretation and success!
Holiday cards available at the Broughton Exchange located on 18 E Broughton St. in Savannah, Ga, OR contact me for details.
Hem hem hem hem